The Wallet Shoppe
If you’ve been looking for a new wallet, or a stylish leather messenger bag, you’ve likely come across this term. You may have wondered what vegetable tanned leather is made of, or even whether it’s vegan.
So to set this straight: vegetable tanned leather is real leather (so not vegan, clearly!). The “vegetable” refers to the natural tannins (mostly from tree bark and wood) used in the tanning process, not the leather.
Note: some people call vegetable tanned leather “veg tan”. We promise to never do that…
Want to know more? Read on for our complete guide!
What is Tanning?
To turn an animal hide into the leather used in wallets, bags and shoes, it has to be “tanned”. Tanning permanently changes the protein structure of the skin (the collagen, the same protein beauty creams promise to boost), so the hide stops decomposing and becomes durable, flexible leather.
Before the 19th century, almost all leather was tanned by soaking hides in tannins, the acidic compounds found in the bark of trees like oak. That’s where the word “tanning” comes from, and people have been doing it for thousands of years. In the Middle Ages, hardened vegetable tanned leather was even used as armor.
Then, in the mid-1800s, tanneries started using chromium salts instead. Chrome tanning was faster and made softer leather, which suited the new industrial world: machine belts, car seats, footwear and upholstery. It soon took over.
Varieties of Tanning Methods
Today, chrome tanning is the most common method by far. It takes a day or two, and gives soft, evenly colored leather that copes well with water and keeps its finish. The catch is in the processing: chromium has to be handled carefully, and how well a tannery manages its waste and its workers’ safety makes a big difference.
There are a couple of other methods too. Aldehyde tanning (“wet white”, after the off-white raw leather) makes very soft, washable leather, which is what a chamois for washing your car is made from. Synthetic tanning took off during World War II, when vegetable tannins were in short supply.
Vegetable tanning is the traditional way. It can take weeks rather than days, and the leather is often finished by hand, which is a big part of why it costs more. The Leather Working Group’s guide to leather making also covers combination methods, like chrome-tanned leather re-tanned with vegetable extracts.
What’s Vegetable Tanned Leather Like?
It’s usually firmer than chrome tanned leather to start with, and it softens up with use, molding itself to, for example, your credit cards. It tends to come in earthy tones rather than bright colors (with a few bright exceptions).
And then there’s the patina. As it meets light, hands and the inside of your pocket, vegetable tanned leather darkens and develops a rich sheen and a record of how you’ve used it. That’s what a lot of leather lovers are after. It won’t be even, though: a pocket edge may darken faster than the middle, and a water spot may stay visible.
Some Drawbacks of Vegetable Tanned Leather
- It’s more sensitive to heat and water, so keep it out of the rain
- It scratches more easily (though a leather repair shop can buff out a lot of surface scratches)
- It comes in fewer colors, and usually not very bright ones
- It costs more, because it takes much longer to make
Major Advantages of Vegetable Tanned Leather
- It softens over time and molds to how you use it
- It develops a rich patina, and those earthy colors darken with age
- It’s usually made in smaller, traditional tanneries, often with a lot of handwork
Is it better for the environment? It depends on the tannery. Vegetable tanning uses more water, chrome tanning uses chromium, and a well-run tannery of either kind can do a better job than a badly run one. Leather Working Group certification is a useful sign that a tannery’s environmental practices have been audited, whichever method it uses.
Vegetable tanned leather does need a bit more TLC, though. So how should you look after it?
How to Care for Vegetable Tanned Leather
Follow the care instructions for your wallet’s finish first. Beyond that:
- Get a soft brush. An animal-hair brush is great for brushing off dirt.
- Avoid water and heat. Water can mark the leather, and high heat dries it out and makes it crack. If it gets wet, let it dry naturally, away from heaters.
- Clean it gently. A regular brush and a wipe with a damp (not wet!) cloth is plenty. Test anything stronger, like saddle soap, on a hidden spot first, as it can change the color.
- Condition it when it looks dry. A light oil or cream conditioner works, and less is more. Bosca’s care advice is a good example of a maker’s guidance.
- Let the patina happen. Don’t try to force it by soaking or sunbathing the wallet. Just use it.
If you spot deep scratches, or you’d rather not do it yourself, a local leather care shop can handle it.
Look after it, and a good vegetable tanned wallet should last you a very long time. Maybe even long enough to hand down to the grandkids!
A Vegetable Tanned Wallet Example
Bosca describes its Old Leather and other signature leathers as vegetable tanned. The Slimfold pairs that leather with a classic folding-wallet layout.
Vegetable Tanned Leather - Wrap Up
Vegetable tanned leather, in short, is a leather you can feel good about: traditionally made, full of character, and getting better with age. Our leather types guide explains the other labels you’ll run into.
